Moc tomu nerozumím. Buď to žere olej jakože ho spaluje. Buď teda gufera nebo kroužky. Kružky by se odhalily asi kontrolou komprese. Nebo ten olej někde uniká. Tak by to zae mělo být vidět na prsou motoru. Případně okolo olejového domku. I když to bys viděl a hlavně 1l /500km to by to tam teklo proudem.
A jestli je 7x sroubů deklu pryč, tak to může téct tamtudma. Staré ventil víko se šrouby ti klidně pošlu. Jen by sis musel pořešit PCV ventil.
BMW Divize
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Re: BMW Divize
Dohodnuto
A terminovo to tiez uplne vyhovuje, vobec na to netlacim, kedze do jara mam Abartha
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Re: BMW Divize
To radi i AIPředseda píše: ↑dnes, 14:09 Moc tomu nerozumím. Buď to žere olej jakože ho spaluje. Buď teda gufera nebo kroužky. Kružky by se odhalily asi kontrolou komprese. Nebo ten olej někde uniká. Tak by to zae mělo být vidět na prsou motoru. Případně okolo olejového domku. I když to bys viděl a hlavně 1l /500km to by to tam teklo proudem.
A jestli je 7x sroubů deklu pryč, tak to může téct tamtudma. Staré ventil víko se šrouby ti klidně pošlu. Jen by sis musel pořešit PCV ventil.
https://gemini.google.com/app/a33f9b0264d69f91?hl=cs
Reaching 200,000 km on a BMW N52 is a milestone; these engines are mechanically robust, but their rubber gaskets and plastic ventilation systems often expire around this mileage.
At this stage, "high oil consumption" usually falls into one of two categories: leaking it (onto the ground/engine) or burning it (through the exhaust).
Here is a step-by-step guide to diagnosing and fixing the issue, ordered from the most common/cheapest fixes to the more complex ones.
1. The "Big Three" External Leaks
Before assuming your engine is burning oil internally, ensure it isn't leaking externally. The N52 is notorious for three specific leaks. Even if you don't see puddles, oil can leak onto hot components and evaporate before hitting the ground.
Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG):
The Check: Look at the front of the engine, around the oil filter cap. If you see grime or wet oil on the engine block below it, this gasket is hard.
The Fix: Replace the gasket immediately.
Warning: A bad leak here can drip oil onto the serpentine belt, causing it to slip off, get sucked into the front crank seal, and destroy the engine. This is a priority fix.
Valve Cover Gasket (VCG):
The Check: Look for oil on the passenger side of the engine (above the exhaust headers) or oil in the spark plug wells. A burning oil smell in the cabin often indicates this leak.
The Fix: Replace the valve cover gasket.
Oil Pan Gasket (OPG):
The Check: Look underneath the car. The subframe or plastic undertray will be wet with oil.
The Fix: This is labor-intensive (requires dropping the subframe) and expensive if paid for at a shop. Many owners live with a minor weep here, but a major leak will drain your oil level fast.
2. The CCV / PCV System (The "Hidden" Burner)
If your engine is dry on the outside but you are losing oil, the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system is the most likely culprit. When the rubber diaphragm inside fails, the engine sucks oil vapor directly into the intake manifold to be burned.
The Symptoms:
High oil consumption (1L per 800–1000km).
Whistling noise from the engine bay.
Rough idling.
The Test: With the engine idling, try to remove the oil filler cap. There should be a very slight vacuum (suction).
If it's impossible to remove (huge suction): CCV has failed.
If there is pressure (blowing out): Piston rings may be worn (blow-by).
The Fix:
Early N52 (Magnesium Valve Cover, ~Pre-2007): The CCV is an external box under the intake manifold. It is difficult to access but the part is cheap.
Later N52 (Plastic Valve Cover, ~2007+): The CCV is integrated into the valve cover itself. You cannot just replace the valve; you must replace the entire valve cover assembly. (This is recommended anyway at 200k km, as the plastic cover can crack).
3. Stuck Piston Rings (Common at High Mileage)
At 200,000 km, carbon buildup can cause the oil control rings on the pistons to seize, preventing them from scraping oil off the cylinder walls effectively. This allows oil to burn during combustion.
The Fix (Chemical Flush): Before considering an engine rebuild, try a chemical cleaning.
Engine Flush: Use a high-quality engine flush (e.g., Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush) right before your next oil change. Idle the car for 10-15 mins with the additive, then drain.
Piston Soak (Aggressive): Remove spark plugs and pour a carbon solvent (like AC Delco X66P or Berryman B-12) directly into the cylinders. Let it soak overnight to loosen the rings, extract the fluid, and change the oil. Note: Consult a mechanic before attempting this DIY.
4. Oil Viscosity Adjustment
If you are using 5W-30 oil, the clearances in a 200k km engine may be wide enough to allow it to slip past seals.
The Fix: Switch to a slightly heavier oil like 0W-40 or 5W-40 (Must be BMW LL-01 approved, such as Castrol Edge or Liqui Moly Leichtlauf). This often slows down consumption significantly without harming the engine.
Summary Checklist for a Fix
Inspect the OFHG and VCG for external leaks.
Test the CCV (suction test at oil cap).
Perform an engine oil flush during your next service.
Switch to 5W-40 or 0W-40 oil (LL-01 spec).
Would you like me to look up the specific CCV setup for your car? If so, please tell me the exact year and model (e.g., 2006 330i or 2009 528i).
Re: BMW Divize
Koupí novej, OEM od BMW, na tom se nemá co posrat, viď
black on black, petliter, jebem na too 
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Re: BMW Divize
@snow: OEM už neseženeš.
@AI: fuck off¨
@ dekl: Michal si snad nějak poradí, nebo ten vrakáč
@AI: fuck off¨
@ dekl: Michal si snad nějak poradí, nebo ten vrakáč
Stáří NENÍ pro sraby, ale já srab sem. A geront k tomu.
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Re: BMW Divize
S tym pocitam ze OEM nezozeniem, ale servis kam to poslat mam a nejako si s tym poriadia. Zachranili tam uz vacsie prusery 
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